Notes from the island.
What we tell friends before they come: the weather, the boats, the food, and the months we'd skip.

Lan Ha Bay weather, month by month
Every travel site has a weather table. Almost none of them are written by people who live here. This one includes the months we don't push, because knowing when not to come is worth more than a discount.
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How to choose a small cruise in Lan Ha Bay
A boat photo tells you what the deck looks like, not how many strangers share it or where the boat is allowed to go. Here are the six questions we ask on every boat before we sell a single seat on it.

What a Vietnamese welcome looks like at our house in Cat Ba
Before any guest of ours sees the bay, they see a wooden door at 70 Tung Dinh. Tea on a tray, a map drawn by hand, one quiet message at noon. This is the welcome our family grew up giving, written down at last.

Cat Ba for travellers over 30: where to stay, what to skip
Cat Ba changes shape with your age. The island that felt like a party at twenty two reads differently at thirty five, if you know which parts to keep. A filter from the family who run a guesthouse on the quiet side of town.

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